Jamaican
Rum
Map of Jamaika, 1671, from Johannem Ogiluium Source: www.mappery.com |
Every German thinks immediately of one
nation when he hears the word 'rum': It is Jamaica. Germany and
Jamaica. For years, there was a special bond that connected both
countries. The "German Rum Market", which originated in the
late 19th century, existed until the beginning of the first
industrial mass murder: the First World War. During this war, and
even in the years beyond, Jamaican Rum was cut off from the access to
the German market and the restrictions ceased the trade between the
nations.
When
sugar in Jamaica reached its peak, there were more than 800 sugar
estate and small plantations, which grew sugarcane. However, those
were very small plantations. Large central estates with big
factories, as there existed quite earlier in Guyana, only began to
form in the 20th century on Jamaica. During the sugar crisis of the
19th century, especially in 1884-85, the Jamaican sugar estate tended
either to abandon the production of sugar and planted instead eg
bananas, or they neglected the production of muscovade sugar and
started to focus on the production of rum. The reason: the shaping of
the German Rum Market. German
scouts roamed the island in search of extreme aromatic rums, which
could be used for further "production" in Germany. In 1889,
the import duty for Jamaican rum was significantly raised in the
German Empire and this reduced the trading with Jamaica in one fell
swoop. The solution to make this high import costs bearable for the
customer were these highly-concentrated rums. These aromatic and
high-ester-containing rums were shipped to the Germany (Flensburg)
and was there stored, aged and finally mixed with neutral spirits.
This rum with a high ester content was never intended to be sipped
neat. Ironically, today it is drunk in this state. “Rum-Verschnitt”
did the rest for the bad reputation of rum in Germany. But the fact
is: In the past the Jamaican distilleries produced world-class rum.
It was them who increased the fermentation period up to 21 days.
However, there was even then reports about the "abnormal stench"
in the distilleries, which could spoil the enjoyment of rum for the
rest of life.
The
“Rum-Verschnitt” helped the Jamaican sugar estate through their
distilleries to withstand the crises on the sugar market. At least
until 1930. Until then, many estates acted not as sugar factories,
but as rum factories. Thereafter, the remaining estates had either to
adopt a more efficient method of sugar production, towards the use of
vacuum bpan process for the production of a white sugar and away from
the process of open boilers (Common Process), in which the sugar
juice was just cooked and which could produce only wet muscovado, or
they gave the cultivation of sugarcane entirely. So the first central
sugar factories emerged in the 20th century in Jamaica. Trinidad and
British Guiana were much more quicker and more efficiently in that
way. But the reason was in the fact that Jamaican rum made this
approximation process at first unnecessary. There was no need for
improvments. Rums of Trinidad and British Guiana were allegedly
already at that time in the shadow of the Jamaican rum. I
have found reports of derogatory remarks of a Jamaican delegate who
denounced the poor quality of these rums and would have prefered to
designate rum as "Rum", when it was distilled in a pot
still. This man was no friend of the column still, which spread
through their efficiency in the Caribbean. He was not able to spread
his opinion. The column still appeared even on Jamaica in the 20th
century. Nevertheless, Jamaica has remained the stronghold of rum
today. How long does it remain that way? Only time will tell.
Today, there are only 4 distilleries. The Innswood distillery was closed down during a reorganisation in 1996. Also the Long Pond Distillery was apparently shut down in 2012 under National Rums of Jamaica. It remains unclear if the distillery will be reactivated ever again, just like it was the case with Hampden, which was closed in 2002 and then reopenend in 2009. The sugar factory of the Long Pond estate is also not working anymore in the actual season (2015-16).
Worthy
Park
Hampden
Monymusk
Appelton (+ New Yarmouth)
The following esters values were
mentioned by JR McFarlane, Chief Chemist (B. Sc.) of the Caymanas
Estates Limited in 1947:
“Common
Clean 80 — 150 parts per 100.000
alcohol.
Plummer
150 — 200 parts per 100.000 alcohol.
Wedderburn
200 — 300 parts per 100.000 alcohol.
Flavoured 700 — 1.600 parts per
100.000 alcohol.”
In 1934, a fix maximum for the ester
content of rum was determined by the Jamaican government. This
maximum limit was at 1,600. For information: The Caymanas Estate was
located northeast of Spanish Town, on the border to the adjacent
Parish of St. Andrews. I have no knowledge on what these categories
are based or why McFarlane has fixed those concentrations. He could,
however, have well-oriented them to the former manufacturers. What
bothers me is the gap between 300 and 700. Are they strictly
speaking still Wedderburn rums or are they already “Flavoured”
rums? In time I will tell something about the distilleries of
Jamaica. All in due time.
---------------------------------
Known Jamaica bottlings
(not complete)
Coming soon...
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