(the
English part is below, just skip the German part)
Willkommen
zurück zu B.A.M.!
Nach
Fidschi ist mal etwas Abwechslung angesagt. Heute verschlägt es uns
wieder einmal nach Jamaika. Es ist eine alte Abfüllung, die schon
vor meiner Zeit ausverkauft war. Es ist der
Cadenhead
Dated Distillation Hampden Distllery
HLCF 1992 13YO!
Zur
Abfüllung:

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Verkostung
Cadenhead Dated Distillation Hampden HLCF 1992 13YO:

Alter:
Wie schon erwähnt beläuft
sich das offizielle Alter
auf 13 Jahre im Fass.
Alkoholstärke:
Der Rum wurde damals mit
einer Trinkstärke von 66,2%vol abgefüllt.
Destillationsverfahren:
Keine Geheimnisse hier. Es
war eine Pot Still.
Farbe:
Blasses Gold.
Viskosität:
Dicke Streifen fließen
zurück zum Glasboden und benetzen das Glas mit einem dünnen Film.
Nase:
Ananas, Kräuter,
Nagellack-Entferner, Papayas und Toffee entweichen dem Glas. Dazu
gesellen sich noch Eiche, Leder und Holzkohle. Nach einer Stunde im
Glas sticht der Alkohol immer noch leicht in der Nase. Dies ist
allerdings bei der hohen Trinkstärke nichts ungewöhnliches. Weiter
weg vom Glasrand erkenne ich Esteraromen, Ananas, papayas, Medizin
und Klebstoff. Toffee. Tief im Glas wird die Nase mit starker
Medizin, Rauch, Ester, Ananas, Holzkohle und Papayas bombardiert.
Kräuter. Anis und schwarzer Tee im Hintergrund. Auch Zuckerrohr ist
darin enthalten. Das Anis wird mit der Zeit stärker. Ein Hauch von
Kirschen schwebt im Glas. Sauerkirschen? Mangos? Ich bin deswegen
unschlüssig, weil der Rum doch etwas kompakt ist. Allerdings ist er
selbst nach 13 Jahren im Fass immer noch stürmisch. Man riecht die
Unreife. Die Nase ist nur sehr schwach süß und weist allerdings
auch einen gewisse Säuregehalt auf, will sagen: Er riecht sauer.
Gaumen:
Ester, Klebstoff und der
Geschmack von Kirschwasser füllt den Mundraum. Zumindest schmeckt er
kurzzeitig leicht nach einem Kirschwasser. Dann kommt auch schon der
Alkohol und brennt auf der Zunge und verdrängt einige der Aromen.
Langsam kommen Medizin und Rauch zum Vorschein. Der Alkohol lässt
etwas nach. Kräuter, Toffee und Anis. Der Rum wird zusehends milder
im Mund und das Brennen lässt immer mehr nach. Der Geschmack wandelt
sich. Die Medizin wird
schwächer und der Rum
wird pflanzlicher
im Mund. Zuerst schmeckt
er leicht säuerlich am
Gaumen. Kirschen, Rauch, Kräuter und immer noch etwas Medizin. Die
Ester verschwinden. Beim zweiten Schluck Ester, Medizin und Rauch.
Jetzt ist die Unreife mehr präsent als zuvor. Ein leicht milchiger
Geschmack begleitet das Brennen. Kirschen, Ananas, Papayas, Kräuter
und Anis. Wieder erst säuerlich, dann wandelt sich der Rum hin zum
pflanzlichen Geschmack und die Medizin und die Säure werden
schwächer. Holzkohle? Die Früchte verblassen. Noch mehr Kräuter,
Eiche und Toffee. Beim dritten und letzten Schluck noch mehr Medizin
und Rauch. Die Unreife legt noch einmal etwas nach. Ansonsten ändert
sich das Bild wenig. Wieder Ester, Kirschen und Kräuter und der
Wandel des Geschmacksprofils hin zum Pflanzlichen.
Abgang:
Ananas, Papayas, Toffee
und Leder. Dann Ester, kurz Kirschen und Kräuter. Ein
Hauch von Zuckerrohr und Ester verweilen sehr lange am Gaumen. Beim
zweiten Schluck Ananas, Ester, Kirschen, Kräuter und dieses Mal
Anis. Am Ende Kräuter und Ester. Beim letzten Schluck Ananas,
Medizin, Rauch und Kirschen. Kräuter und Anis am Ende. Der Rum ist
leicht trocken.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Marco
(86/100)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Welcome
back to BAM!
After
some rums from Fiji some variety is called for. Today we once again
turn our attention to Jamaica. It is an old bottling, which was sold
out before my time. It is the Cadenhead Dated Distillation Hampden
Distllery HLCF 1992 13YO!
The
Bottling:
This
rum was gone
at the
beginning of my rum career in 2012. I only
knew of
him by hearsay. Flo seemed
to love him. But
at that time my interest and
focus was not in Jamaica. However,
this changed after we
separated our ways. But this
bottling was for a very long time not on my radar. True, I had a lot
of rums to buy to close the gap in the Jamaica section of this blog
but I knew no possible source.
Only a sample of Pietro
enabled me to taste this rum. I
did make the review very recently and did not touch it before, even
the sample is now a little while in my possession. But the situation
has changed gravely between 2006 and 2017. We
had a number of very good bottling distilled in 1993 and 1998, we
even had a uniquely and unexpected chance to taste the vintage 1990
at a higher strength thanks to Duncan Taylor and we might get the
same chance again, but not at such a cheaply rate at is was once the
case. You might ask yourself now where am I getting with this. Let it
put me this way: All these rums were at a very good or even on a high
level of quality. They have raised the bar and expectation
permanently after their release. Maybe it was raised too high for an
old bottling such as this. This is the crux of making a proper rum
review. How can I make a fair and critically evaluation of the
quality, when I only have one or two rums of one distillery or the
same style at my disposal. Technically you can still do it, but then
you might embarrass yourself when you look back on the old review
from a retrospective point of view in the future, after you've tasted
a truly great or epic fail of the said style. It might look absurd.
I've been spoiled by the
previously published rums from
Hampden too much.
I openly admit
that.
The Habitation Velier Hampden Distillery 2010 6 YO even
created big expectations in my book when it comes to older tropical
rums made from this distillery. But
we will have to wait until this happy event will eventually become
reality. So if this said bottling from Cadenhead would have been my
first rum before the vintages 1993 and 1998 I would possibly given
him a higher rating. I am not sure about this, but the chance is
there. This is also the reason why I am hesitating in reviewing some
rums, even if I do have a sample on hand. I am lacking of rums to
compare them quality-wise. Flo got this rum in the “proper order”.
I experienced it after the aforementioned good vintages. Curiously
the months are not mentioned on the label. So the resulting official
age is the absolute resulting minimum that could be possible. Why did
Cadenhead not mention the month of the bottling? The
Mark HLCF on the label does
tells us that the rum contains
500-700 mg of ester in one
pure liter of alcohol (LAA - liter Absolute Alcohol). Let's start
with the tasting.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tasting
Cadenhead Dated Distillation Hampden HLCF 1992 13YO:

Age:
As
already mentioned the official age is 13 years.
ABV:
The rum was bottled
with a drinking strength of 66.2%abv.
Process
of distillation: No
secrets here. It was a pot still.
Color:
Pale gold.
Viscosity:
The rum flows in thick
stripes back to the glass bottom.
Nose:
Pineapple,
herbs, nail polish remover, papayas and toffee are
hovering above the glass.
These aromas are
joined by oak, leather and charcoal. After an hour in the glass the
alcohol still slightly
stings into the nose. No
surprise if you bear the high strength in mind. Further
away I recognize ester flavours,
pineapple, papayas, medicine and a
glue-like flavour. Some
toffee. Deep in the glass
the nose is
getting bombarded
with strong medicine, smoke, esters, pineapple, charcoal and papayas.
Herbs. Anise and black tea in the background. Even sugar cane
is in this mix. The anise is
getting stronger
over
the time.
A touch of cherries also
floats in it.
Sour cherries? Mangos? I'm hesitant to
name some flavours because
the rum is very compact.
It gives me a hard time.
However, it
is still young and stormy,
even after 13 years in the barrel. You can smell the immaturity. The
nose does have a very
weak sweetness
but also a certain acidity. It
smells sour.
Palate:
Ester,
glue-like flavours
and the tastes of kirsch fills the mouth. At least it tastes briefly
slightly after a Kirschwasser
(aka Kirsch). Then the
alcohol burns on
the tongue and displaces some of the flavours.
Slowly
medicine
and smoke emerge. The alcohol intensity
decreases. Herbs, toffee and
anise. The rum becomes
noticeably milder in the mouth and the
burning is
fading out. The taste is
changing. The medicine is weaker and the rum becomes
increasingly herbal in
taste.
At the beginning
it tastes slightly acidic on the palate. Cherries, smoke, herbs and
still some medicine. The esters
disappear. With the
second sip esters, medicine and smoke. Now the immaturity is more
present than before.
A slight milky flavour
is accompanying the
burning. Cherries, pineapple, papaya, herbs and anise. Again first
sour, then the rum converts
towards the herbal
flavor. The
medicine and the acid are getting
weaker. Charcoal? The fruits
are fading out.
Even more herbs, oak and toffee. In the third and last sip more
medicine and smoke. The immaturity is
now at maximum. But the overall picture is not changing. Again
esters, cherries and herbs and then
the change of
the flavor profile toward
the herbs.
Finish:
Pineapple,
papayas, toffee and leather. Then esters, briefly
cherries and herbs. A touch
of sugar cane and esters are
dwelling
very long on the palate. After
the second sip pineapple,
esters, cherries, herbs and this time anis.
At the end herbs and esters. At the last sip pineapple (again),
medicine, smoke and cherries. Herbs and aniseed at the end. The rum
is slightly dry. I like
that.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Marco
(86/100)